Ålesund – Jugendstaden

This rugged coastline was once Viking territory. You’ll find a bronze statue of fearsome warrior Gange-Rolv (Rollo the Ganger) standing tall in Ålesund’s Town Park, on the foothills of Mount Aksla. It’s believed Rollo, ancestor of William the Conqueror, hailed from nearby Giske in the 9th century.

It wasn’t until 1848 that Ålesund gained township status. Quick growth needed quickly constructed buildings, and a network of simple wooden structures arose. But half a century later, the winds of a winter storm turned a factory fire into a citywide catastrophe. On 23 January 1904, flames burnt much of Ålesund to the ground.

On hearing the news, Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany – who adored this region – sent manpower and materials to help resurrect Ålesund. Inspired by the architecture popular in Germany at that time, the city was rebuilt in Art Nouveau style.

A slice of life before the fire can be seen in the Eastern district – one house here survived the blaze: Waldehuset. “Its story is fascinating,” says Linn Giske Friedl, local and Cruise Sales Manager at Destination Ålesund & Sunnmøre. “The house is well worth visiting; it’s open by appointment most of the year.”

Over by the harbour, another survivor was the Holbua warehouse. Today, this is the Fisheries Museum, where you can delve into the history of Ålesund’s fishing past.

During the 1950s and 60s, Ålesund became a centre for the herring fishery business, thanks to a nearby spawning area. For many years, its docks were filled with skilled craftsmen building and repairing ships for the fishing industry. The discovery of oil in the North Sea in the 1970s shifted focus to producing vessels for the oil and gas sector – but fishing still has a grip on Ålesund’s heart.

Today, the city is visibly loyal to its fishing heritage. “Depending on the time of year, you can often see people fishing from the pier in the town centre, and spot streams of fish just by looking at the water in the harbour,” says Linn.

You’ll find no shortage of fresh seafood to sample, and events such as the annual food festival showcase Ålesund’s very best.

Of all the seasons experienced in Ålesund’s temperate climate, Linn loves spring the most. “Very often we have beautiful weather and the streets come alive with people and guests from all over the world,” she says.

“Summer is my favourite season,” says Adelina Kasnauskaite, Restaurant Manager at Zuuma. “Not only because of the weather, but because the tourists enliven the city! Winter is much calmer, it gets darker earlier and longer – that’s a perfect season for indoor activities or skiing.”

Winters tend to be mild with strong winds. Rain drives in from the sea from September to January. But Ålesund’s locals are unfazed by the weather and say the city can be enjoyed whatever the forecast.

“Even a stormy autumn has its charm and we have our own hats, Sydvest, especially for the rain!” says Linn. “In winter I recommend a walk in the town park, it's beautiful in the snow. However, watch your step – it can be icy!”

In the colder months, the nearby Sunnmøre Alps and Strandafjellet are a snowy playground for those wanting the thrill of off-piste still accessible by lifts.