To the south, the peak of Trolltindan soars 1,045-1,084 m above sea level, and its sheer sides pose a permanent threat of rock falls. To the north is Blåfjellet, rising 998 m above sea level. To the west and 162 m above sea level is the lake of Trollfjordvatnet, fills with chunks of ice even during the summer. This is the closest the Coastal Express can get to the Norwegian trolls. Don’t worry, the captain knows the way out. He also knows that the trolls sleep for 1,000 years after their midday nap and before they start throwing stones at the ship.
Troll Fjord is famous for the Battle of Troll Fjord which took place here in 1890. The battle was between fishermen in steam-driven fishing boats and fishermen in ‘fembøringer’ (boats with sails and oars for five oarsmen). Huge quantities of fish had swum into the fjord and the fishermen in the larger boats were trapping them in a seine formed from their fishing nets, to the exasperation of the crews on the smaller boats. The battle is described in Johan Bojer’s novel ‘The last Viking’ and depicted in Gunnar Berg’s painting ‘The Battle of Troll Fjord’, which hangs in Svolvær Town Hall. Before we begin our approach to Svolvær, we pass the old fishing village of Skrova.